How to Fix a Dripping Faucet: Step-by-Step by Faucet Type (2026)

A single dripping faucet at one drip per second wastes roughly 3,000 gallons of water per year — about $30–80 on your bill depending on your rates. The cause is almost always a $5 worn part: a rubber washer, an O-ring, a cartridge, or a ceramic disc. Fixing it takes 30–60 minutes and the right $5–40 in parts. Here's how to identify what you have and fix it properly.

Most repair guides skip the most important step: identifying which of the four faucet types you have. Each type drips for a different reason and is fixed with a different part. Get this right and the fix is almost foolproof.

Step 1: Identify Your Faucet Type

Four common types. Most homes have a mix.

Compression faucet

Two handles (one hot, one cold), turn until they stop — a hard mechanical stop, not a smooth quarter-turn. Usually older homes (pre-1970s). Drips because the rubber washer inside the stem is worn or cracked.

Ball faucet

Single handle that pivots over a rounded cap. Common in 1980s–2000s kitchens. Drips because the springs and seats under the ball are worn, or because the ball itself is pitted.

Cartridge faucet

Single or double handle that moves smoothly with no hard stops, sometimes with a slight click. Most modern faucets (post-2000). Drips because the cartridge has worn O-rings or internal seals.

Ceramic-disc faucet

Single handle, sits on a wider cylindrical body, very smooth quarter-turn motion. The premium type — most expensive, longest-lasting. Drips because of worn rubber seals at the base of the disc cylinder, almost never the disc itself.

Unsure? Look up the brand and model on the manufacturer's site — most have parts diagrams that tell you which type and which repair kit to buy.

Before You Start

Shut off the water

Look under the sink for two small shutoff valves on the supply lines (hot and cold). Turn both clockwise until they stop. If there are no individual shutoffs, shut off the water at the main.

Open the faucet to drain residual pressure. Confirm no water comes out before disassembling.

Cover the drain

Stuff a rag in the drain or close the stopper. You will drop a small screw or a spring. Always.

Take photos as you disassemble

Every step. Reassembly is much easier with a reference. This applies double for ball faucets, which have six small parts that go back in a specific order.

What you'll need (most repairs)

• Adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
• Allen wrench set (for handle set screws)
• Plumber's grease (silicone-based, not petroleum — petroleum degrades rubber)
• Replacement parts kit specific to your faucet brand and model
• Vinegar (for cleaning mineral deposits during reassembly)
• Old rag
• Flashlight

Fix #1: Compression Faucet (Two-Handle, Hard Stop)

The dripping side is the side that's worn. If hot drips, fix the hot stem; cold drips, cold stem. If both drip, do both.

1. Pop off the decorative cap on the dripping handle (usually marked H or C). Pry up gently with a flathead.
2. Remove the screw underneath and lift off the handle.
3. Unscrew the packing nut (the brass hex below the handle) with channel-lock pliers. Turn counterclockwise.
4. Lift out the stem. You'll see a rubber washer at the bottom held by a brass screw.
5. Unscrew the brass screw and pull off the old washer. Note its size and shape (flat vs. beveled).
6. Install a new washer of the same size and shape. If the brass seat under the washer is rough or pitted, also replace it (universal seat-wrench tool from any hardware store).
7. Apply a thin film of plumber's grease to the new washer and the threads.
8. Reassemble in reverse order. Don't overtighten — firm is enough.
9. Turn the water back on slowly. Test.

Cost: $1–3 for the washer. Done in 20–30 minutes.

Fix #2: Ball Faucet (Single-Handle, Pivots Over a Cap)

Drips here usually mean worn springs and rubber seats, not the ball itself. Universal kits work for almost all ball faucets.

1. Remove the handle: loosen the set screw under the handle (it's a tiny Allen screw; size 1/16" or 5/64" usually) and lift the handle off.
2. Unscrew the cap collar by hand or with channel-locks wrapped in a rag.
3. Lift out the cam, packing, and ball as one assembly. Note the orientation.
4. Inside the body you'll see two small rubber seats and the springs underneath. Use a flathead screwdriver to lift them out.
5. Replace the seats and springs with the new kit's matching pieces. They go in springs-first, seat on top.
6. Inspect the ball. If it has pits or scratches you can feel with a fingernail, replace it too (usually included in higher-end kits).
7. Apply plumber's grease to the new O-rings on the cam.
8. Reassemble: ball with the keyway aligned to the body slot, cam, packing, cap.
9. Turn water on slowly. Test.

Cost: $8–20 for a repair kit. 30–45 minutes.

Fix #3: Cartridge Faucet (Single or Double, Smooth Motion)

Easiest of the four to fix — you pull out one part and put in a new one.

1. Pop the decorative cap on the handle, remove the screw, lift the handle off.
2. Remove the retaining nut or clip. Some cartridges are held by a brass nut; others by a U-shaped brass clip.
3. Pull the cartridge straight up. If stuck, use a cartridge puller tool ($10–20) — do NOT pry with a screwdriver, you'll break the housing.
4. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store, or look up the model on the brand's site. Match exactly. Universal cartridges work in some faucets but not most.
5. Lubricate the new cartridge's O-rings with plumber's grease.
6. Drop the new cartridge in, aligned with the slot in the body.
7. Replace the retaining clip or nut.
8. Reinstall the handle. Hand-tight on screws, then a quarter-turn.
9. Turn water on slowly. Test hot and cold; they may be reversed if you installed the cartridge backwards — pull it and rotate 180° if so.

Cost: $15–40 for the cartridge. 20–40 minutes.

Special note for Moen, Delta, and Kohler

These three brands have lifetime warranties on cartridges and seats. Call their customer service with your model number; they'll mail you the replacement parts for free.

Fix #4: Ceramic-Disc Faucet (Smooth Quarter-Turn, Wider Body)

The disc cylinder almost never wears out (ceramic is harder than most household debris). The dripping is from rubber seals at the base.

1. Remove the handle (set screw under a cap, same as ball faucets).
2. Lift off the escutcheon/decorative cap.
3. Unscrew the mounting screws holding the disc cylinder. Lift the cylinder straight up.
4. On the bottom you'll see 2–3 rubber inlet seals. Pull them out with a flathead.
5. Inspect for tearing or flattening. Replace any that look worn (kit usually includes 3–4).
6. Clean any mineral deposits from the inlet ports with a toothbrush dipped in vinegar.
7. Drop new seals in their ports.
8. Reinstall the cylinder, screws, escutcheon, handle.
9. Turn water on slowly. Run the faucet on low at first to seat the new seals — a few seconds of full pressure too soon can blow them out.

Cost: $10–20 for the seal kit. 30–45 minutes.

If It Still Drips After Repair

The valve seat is corroded

Most common on compression faucets. The brass valve seat under the washer pits over years of mineral abrasion. Resurface with a seat-grinder tool ($10), or replace the seat with a universal seat wrench.

The cartridge wasn't fully seated

Modern cartridges have alignment tabs that must line up with notches in the body. If you don't seat fully, the handle still turns but the internal seals don't compress properly. Pull and re-seat.

You installed the wrong cartridge

Looks identical, but a 1/64" difference in port location and it leaks. Cross-reference with the manufacturer.

The faucet body itself is cracked

Rare but possible — hairline cracks in cast brass after 20–30 years of thermal cycling. No fix; replace the faucet.

When to Replace Instead of Repair

Sometimes a new $80 faucet is cheaper than the repair. Replace if:

• The faucet is over 20 years old AND you're doing a second repair on the same one. Internal corrosion will keep generating new leaks.
• The brand is obscure or discontinued and parts aren't available. Generic kits sometimes work, sometimes don't.
• You've replaced cartridges or seats twice in a year. The body itself is the problem.
• You don't like the faucet anyway. A repair on a faucet you'd otherwise upgrade is wasted money.

Modern pull-down kitchen faucets: $80–300. Bathroom widespread: $100–250. Single-hole bathroom: $60–200. Install yourself in 1–2 hours.

Common Mistakes

1. Skipping the rag in the drain. You will drop something. It will fall down the drain. Then your faucet repair becomes a P-trap project.
2. Using petroleum jelly instead of silicone plumber's grease. Petroleum degrades nitrile and neoprene rubber. Same job, but the new washers will fail in months.
3. Forcing a stuck cartridge. Pry-bars and screwdrivers crack the body. A $10 cartridge puller pays for itself the first time.
4. Overtightening the packing nut. Crushes the stem, causes premature wear, and often makes the drip worse, not better.
5. Not turning the water on slowly. Full pressure into a newly-assembled faucet can blow seals back out before they seat.
6. Buying universal parts when brand-specific is available. The fit is almost-but-not-quite. Always buy parts that match your brand and model.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to fix a dripping faucet?

DIY parts: $1–40 depending on faucet type. Plumber callout for the same repair: $125–300 labor in 2026. A repair kit is one of the highest-ROI things you can buy.

How long does a faucet repair take?

20–40 minutes for a compression or cartridge faucet (the simpler types). 30–45 minutes for ball and ceramic-disc. Add 15–20 minutes if it's your first time and you need to identify parts.

How long should faucet washers and cartridges last?

Rubber washers (compression): 3–7 years. Cartridges: 8–15 years for budget brands, 15–20+ for premium. Ceramic discs: 25–30 years.

Why does my faucet drip only when it's hot?

The hot-side washer or cartridge fails first because heat ages rubber and plastic faster than cold. If hot drips and cold doesn't, repair only the hot side (or replace only the hot cartridge in a single-handle).

Can I use Teflon tape on faucet repairs?

Yes, on the threaded connections of supply lines (where the supply hose meets the shutoff valve, for example). Don't use it on internal cartridge or washer threads — it doesn't belong there and can cause misalignment.

Why did my faucet start dripping right after I fixed it?

Three usual causes: (1) the new washer or seal got pinched or twisted during install — disassemble and check; (2) you didn't fully seat the cartridge; (3) the seat under the washer is pitted and needs to be resurfaced or replaced.

Is a dripping faucet an emergency?

Not immediate, but don't ignore for months. Beyond water waste, the dripping water can cause mineral buildup that erodes the valve body, and constant moisture inside the faucet body accelerates corrosion. Fix within a few weeks.

Identify, Match the Part, Don't Force Anything

The dripping faucet repair is one of the most beginner-friendly plumbing jobs in the house. Get the type right, buy the brand-specific repair kit, take photos as you go, and most repairs go smoothly the first time. The savings over a plumber callout are real — and so is the satisfaction of a dry, quiet sink.

Need parts? Browse our faucets and accessories for replacement faucets, repair kits, and plumber's grease — most items ship within 48 hours.